The cheapest way to get switches out of a hot-swap board without bending the pins. Stainless steel jaws, a plastic-coated handle, and nothing else: no machined body, no finish, no spring-loaded release. If you are pulling switches once to try a different set, this does the same job as the twenty-five dollar versions.
A switch opener is a jig that pops the top housing off a switch so you can lube or film it, which is otherwise a two-thumbnail job that snaps latches. Gateron gives the material only as metal, the length as 126mm, and states it fits Cherry MX style switches but not BOX switches, so check what you own before ordering. At thirty dollars this is one of the more expensive openers in the index, and cheaper aluminum ones open the same housings.
If you are hand lubing switches, the brush matters more than the lube, because a cheap craft brush sheds hairs into the housing. These are 18cm, a nylon and Kolinsky blend on a wood handle, and each order is one brush rather than a kit. The listing gives no guidance on which of the five head sizes to pick, so nothing is recorded here about that.
These films work differently from rigid polycarbonate: at 0.3mm they are compressible, so one thickness is sold as fitting housings that would otherwise need two different films. A pack is 120 films plus 16 foam pads for stabilizers, which does the same job as the band-aid mod without cutting anything up. Filming is optional, and a switch whose housing does not wobble gains nothing from it.
Films are thin shims that sit between a switch's top and bottom housing and take up the slack that lets the housing rattle. KBDfans lists these as 130 per pack, 0.15mm polycarbonate, fitting most Cherry and Gateron switches but not low profile or BOX types. The price is left blank because the only variant in the source data is a single color at one dollar, which does not clearly correspond to the multi-type pack the listing describes.
Swapping springs is the cheapest way to change how heavy a switch feels without buying a new set of switches. These are Korean SS304, dry lubed from the factory, 4.05mm outer diameter, in six length and stage combinations from 14mm to 23mm, with bottom-out weights from 55g to 69g in packs of 110. CannonKeys quotes a variance of plus or minus 2g, which matters if you are trying to match springs already in a board.
Plate foam sits between the PCB and the plate and deadens the hollow ring a bare case makes. This is 4mm EPT from Japan, cut for either 60% or F12 TKL, so it fits those two layouts and nothing else. Foam is a matter of taste rather than correctness, and plenty of builders leave it out entirely.
A coiled aviator cable is cosmetic rather than functional: the GX-16 screw connector lets you detach the keyboard end, and the coil takes up slack on the desk. This is the polyurethane version, USB-C to USB-A 2.0, with a 53 inch run to the host and a 5.7 inch coil. CannonKeys marks every length as approximate, so the figures are recorded here as stated and not as measurements.
A stone wrist rest is a palm rest rather than a support: it brings the heel of your hand up to the height of the keyboard's front edge so the wrist is not bent back. KBDfans gives 296 x 80 x 20 mm for the 60% size, 320 x 80 x 20 mm for 65% and 75%, and 360 x 80 x 20 mm for 80%, and ships rubber feet with it. The price is blank because it changes with size, and no package weight is listed for the 80% version. The shop also notes that the stone's pattern will not match the photographs.
Most deskmats in these catalogs are a printed cloth with no stated construction, and this index skips those because there is nothing to record. This one is listed with figures: 1.5mm polyurethane over a sueded bottom, stitched edges, in 700 x 300 mm and 900 x 400 mm. The price is omitted because the two sizes are priced differently and the listing does not attach one figure to the product as a whole.